in Berlin

Exploring Berlin: Coffee and Pretzels around Bergmannkiez (Kreuzberg).

Going to the same places over and over again in a big city like Berlin, nullifies what a “big city” is good for.

But it’s been a difficult habit for me to break. That’s why I decided to start exploring places I hadn’t been recently (or ever) to.

Taking the S-Bahn from Friedrichshain.

An area that I’ve only explored in parts is Kreuzberg. I may have been in most of it, but some times were when I was still new in Berlin and had almost no sense of direction.

One of those parts was Bergmannkiez, located in the western part of Kreuzberg and minutes away by foot from Tempelhof.

I started with a coffee in Chapter One.

I wanted to go there for a long time, since one of the owners used to co-own another favorite coffee shop of mine, but it was always too far away.

Chapter One Coffee

The coffee was definitely one of the best I’ve had in Berlin. Truly tasteful, with a lot of character, but not overwhelming. They also had some croissants on show that looked amazing, but I didn’t try any.

Unfortunately, the place is mostly suited for takeaway, since the seats are few and not very comfortable.

After the quick coffee, I walked around the kiez. There was a flea market, as it happens usually on Berliner Sundays. A big church towered over the market stands.

After that I walked. I followed Bergmannstraße towards the east. People were walking around a big cemetery, that also functioned as a park.

Then, I ended upon another big church.

If I continued straight, I would soon reach familiar areas of Kreuzberg, so I went back again.

I passed the flea market for the second time. Next to it, there was a Markthalle that was unfortunately closed for Sunday. Too bad, since I wanted to eat there. Maybe some other weekday.

Taking the road towards the Tempelhof park, I found a shop selling Pretzels, called “Pretzel Bar”. I went in and had breakfast.

The Pretzels were great, so I took one more for the road.

People were walking around slowly, alone or in pairs with their kids, but the city was feeling empty. Maybe it was the area, maybe the time of day or the bone-breaking cold – or maybe it was just a typical Berliner Sunday: relaxed to the point of atony.

The only thing left to do, was to follow my Sunday’s goal.

I went to the closest S-Bahn station and took the direction home. It was time to do some serious relaxing. The faces of other Berliners on the train told the same story.

Inside my backpack, there was a paper bag with half a pretzel, left from what I couldn’t finish earlier.

I tried to think of some clever quote involving Pretzels and life itself, but soon gave up.

The sun warming my skin behind the train’s window was too good to make any kind of thinking worth it anymore.

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